As Paul Bowles described, "Fès is an enchanted labyrinth sheltered by time." We stayed at the Riad Al Bartal located in the Fès El Bali medina, the world's largest medieval city. Our first attempt to get from the riad to the main market was unforgettable because we were totally disoriented and irritated by kids persistently trying to show us the way.

The next day the riad owner hooked us up with a guide, the best way to visit the medina. For more than 6 hours, he guided us through miles and miles of alleys which included rug, leather and traditional pottery shops. Typically, the guide would take us to the shop, introduce us to the owner and disappear, to give us time to shop.

We also took a two hour train ride to MEKNES. At the train station, we hired a taxi driver to take us to VOLUBILIS, to visit the roman ruins, and MOULAY IDRISS, known for the excellent local nougat — eye candy everywhere!